Sensitive Skin? Kojic Acid Might Be Your New Brightening Solution

allure editor with kojic acid productsCollage: Paula Balondo; Source images: Courtesy of brands; Source images: Allure editorsSave StorySave this storySave StorySave this story

If stubborn dark spots are your biggest skin concern, it might be time to give the best kojic acid products a spote in your routine. Vitamin C and niacinamide tend to steal the brightening spotlight, but kojic acid is a quiet overachiever that packs a serious punch. This powerhouse antioxidant helps fade discoloration by blocking tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, making it a go-to for tackling hyperpigmentation and skin discoloration.

"Tyrosinase is an enzyme that is critical in creating the pigment, or melanin, in our skin," says Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Miami. (Another well-known tyrosinase inhibitor is vitamin C.) What sets kojic acid apart is that it's "usually well tolerated in skin care," she says. Although it could be slightly irritating at higher concentrations, most people can use it without worry, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd says—so it's a great alternative if you've ever found vitamin C to be a little too irritating on skin. (Niacinamide, meanwhile, interferes with pigment production via a different mechanism. The more you know.)

Our Top Kojic Acid Serums

  • Best Overall: SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum, $115
  • Best for Dry Skin: Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum, $22
  • Best for Melasma: Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum, $38
  • Best for Mature Skin: Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum, $68
  • Best for Oily Skin: La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum, $45
  • Best Spot Treatment: PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free, $96

Whether you’re dealing with sun or age spots, melasma, or post-inflammatory marks, kojic acid helps even out your skin tone for clearer, more luminous skin. Ahead, the best kojic acid products to bring brightness back to your skin.

Frequently Asked QuestionsAccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevron

  • What is kojic acid, and what does it do?
  • What are the potential side effects of kojic acid?
  • How long does kojic acid take to work?
  • What should you not use with kojic acid?
  • Meet the experts
  • How we test and review products
  • Our staff and testers

Best Overall: SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum

SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum in branded white bottle with silver and black pipette on light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

SkinCeuticals

Discoloration Defense

$115

Dermstore

$115

Skinceuticals

$115

Bluemercury

Former Allure shopping market editor Angela Trakoshis applying the SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

Angela Trakoshis

Why we love it: Nothing beats Discoloration Defense Serum, a dark spot corrector that actually delivers—which is why it's our top pick among kojic acid products. Dr. Woolery-Lloyd recommends it for her patients dealing with dullness and discoloration, since it “has kojic acid along with other ingredients to manage hyperpigmentation,” she says, adding that it also has studies with good results to back up its claims. Board-certified dermatologist Jeanette Graf, MD, is also a fan, noting that it's lightweight and oil-free—making it suitable for all skin tones. "It combines the power of tranexamic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide to brighten skin’s overall complexion and reduce hyperpigmentation,” she says.

Selfie of Trakoshis before applying the SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

Trakoshis before applying SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense for two months

Angela TrakoshisSelfie of Trakoshis after applying the SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

Trakoshis after using SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense for four months

Angela Trakoshis

Tester feedback from former shopping market editor Angela Trakoshis

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“I’ve been using SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense consistently for the past four months, and I can confidently say it works. I originally started using it to target some lingering post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from hormonal acne, plus a few sunspots that started creeping in after one too many beach days without reapplying sunscreen (oops, don't tell my derm).

What I love is how gentle but effective it is—no tingling, peeling, or irritation, which I’ve had with other brightening serums. It’s lightweight and layers easily under my moisturizer, so it fits right into my nighttime routine. After the first six to eight weeks, I started noticing my dark spots looking a little softer and less noticeable. Now at four months, some of the more shallow discoloration is nearly gone, and the deeper spots have definitely lightened. My skin tone overall just looks more even and fresh. It’s not an overnight fix, but if you’re consistent, it seriously works.” —Angela Trakoshis, former shopping market editor

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: kojic acid (1%), niacinamide (5%), tranexamic acid (3%)
  • Who it's for: all skin types
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Dry Skin: Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum in branded dropper component on a light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

Medicube

Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

$22 $19 (14% off)

Amazon

$21

Ulta Beauty

Allure contributing commerce writer Christa Joanna Lee applying the Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Christa Joanna Lee

Why it’s worth it: Medicube’s Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum is a capsule serum, meaning those tiny, snowflake-like specks you see suspended in the formula are actually micro-encapsulated ingredients. When you apply it to skin, the capsules—which protect ingredients from oxidation for peak freshness—melt and burst so you get the most noticeable brightening, hydrating, and smoothing results. As the name suggests, it pairs kojic acid with turmeric, which together brighten skin and improve dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It also has niacinamide and vitamin E to even out skin tone and a plump, calm barrier.

Lee before applying the Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Lee before applying the Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Christa Joanna LeeLee after applying the Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Lee after applying the Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Serum

Christa Joanna Lee

Tester feedback from contributing commerce writer Christa Joanna Lee

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“My first impression of this serum was that it looked a little grainy in the bottle and on the dropper, but that’s the thing about capsule serums: they burst the second they hit your skin. I tested it during the perfect (read: terrible) weekend of arctic tundra temps in the Northeast, when my face was dry, reactive, and dull from whipping between cold frigid air outside and heat inside. The bright yellow formula, courtesy of turmeric, not only brightens my vanity but actually brightens my skin. The instant hit of hydration is undeniable, and my complexion looked less stressed and more awake.” —Christa Joanna Lee, contributing commerce writer

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: kojic acid (amount not disclosed), turmeric, niacinamide, vitamin E
  • Who it's for: all skin types
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Melasma: Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum

Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum pink tube on light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

Topicals

Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum

$38

Amazon

$38

Sephora

Why we love it: Designed with skin of color in mind—as it's more vulnerable to hyperpigmentation—Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Gel can help speed the fading process of discoloration and age spots without irritation. It’s a favorite of La Jolla, CA-based board-certified dermatologist, Azadeh Shirazi, MD, who says kojic acid is great for tackling sun spots and melasma when used consistently with sunscreen. “It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme your skin uses to make melanin,” she says. However, instead of pure kojic acid, this formula is made of kojic dipalmitate, a modified, oil-soluble version that’s much gentler on the skin. “This overcomes some of the product stability issues of pure kojic acid, and due to its lipid-soluble nature, it can penetrate the skin better,” explains cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos.

This makes it a great choice for daily use, even for those with more reactive skin; because kojic dipalmitate absorbs more gradually, it’s less likely to cause irritation or sensitivity compared to pure kojic acid, according to Dobos, which can sometimes cause issues when it penetrates too quickly. Also inside are soothing Centella Asiatica, which brings down inflammation, with a powerful blend of tranexamic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide, and azelaic acid (essentially a Who's Who of brightening ingredients).

Tester feedback from Trakoshis

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“Dark spots will stay on my skin for weeks (longer than the damn pimple)—they're not even paying rent! Faded brings down the darkness without lightening my skin, so it works not only for my olive skin tone but for all skin tones." —Angela Trakoshis, former shopping market editor

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: tranexamic acid, niacinamide, azelaic acid
  • Who it's for: everyone, but especially those with melanin-rich skin in mind
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Mature Skin: Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum

Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum in branded purple component on light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

Dr. Idriss

Major Fade Hyper Serum

$68

Sephora

$68

Dr. Idriss

Why we love it: For all-over brightening, consider the Major Fade Hyper Serum, which was developed by New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss, MD, and is a favorite of Reshmi Kapoor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Brooklyn Dermatology in New York City. It's not entirely surprising that the treatment gets its brightening benefits from a blend of niacinamide, kojic acid, and alpha arbutin. What is surprising? It also contains glycerin, which gives it a more immediate plumping and firming effect. Plus, the soothing licorice root extract helps calm everything down, making this an ideal pick for anyone who wants to combat discoloration without compromising hydration.

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: niacinamide, alpha arbutin
  • Who it's for: all skin types
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Oily Skin: La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum

La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum in branded white bottle with pipette on light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

La Roche-Posay

Glycolic B5 Serum

$45

Amazon

$45

Dermstore

$47

Ulta Beauty

Why It's Worth It: La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 pairs the brightening power of kojic acid with exfoliating glycolic acid to target dark spots and smooth rough patches. Dr. Woolery-Lloyd likes the La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum, a glycolic-acid treatment that can be used alone or mixed into a moisturizer for a brightening effect. Plus, “hyperpigmentation is very challenging to treat, so I like to use products that contain a combination of ingredients that target pigment,” she says. “This combines kojic acid with glycolic acid, which has also been shown to improve hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.”

For the uninitiated, "glycolic acid significantly increases skin turnover by speeding up the natural process of shedding dead skin cells, allowing for a smoother and more radiant appearance,” says Dobos. To counteract dryness that can sometimes come with exfoliation, this serum also includes panthenol, a humectant that helps attract moisture to the skin. The result is brighter, more even skin that still feels soft and hydrated.

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: kojic acid (amount not disclosed), glycolic acid, tranexamic acid, lipo-hydroxy acid
  • Who it's for: oily or acne-prone skin types
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best Spot Treatment: PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free

PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free in branded amber bottle with black pump on light gray backgroundSave to wishlistSave to wishlist

PCA Skin

Pigment Gel HQ Free

$96

Amazon

$96

Dermstore

Why we love it: Hydroquinone has long been used to target hyperpigmentation, but it's raised concerns about potential toxicity; in fact, Europe banned it back in 2001. PCA Skin's Pigment Gel HQ Free serves as a worthy alternative, which swaps the powerful active ingredient for a blend of kojic acid, azelaic acid, and phenylethyl resorcinol, an antioxidant that works to even out skin tone. “It also features the proprietary SynerPro complex, which targets existing pigmentation while helping to prevent new spots,” Nicole Lee, MD, board-certified dermatologist in Garden City, New York, previously shared with Allure. “Its elegant, gel-based formula absorbs beautifully into the skin, making it as effective as it is pleasant to use.”

This formula also contains an ingredient called phenylethyl resorcinol. "On its own, phenylethyl resorcinol has demonstrated potent skin-brightening properties as well as antioxidant activity," says Dobos. Heads up: This is intended to be a spot treatment, so you may need to supplement it with another product for all-over brightening.

More to know

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  • Key ingredients: kojic acid (amount not disclosed), azelaic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol
  • Who it's for: all skin types, even sensitive and rosacea-prone skin
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Frequently Asked Questions

What is kojic acid, and what does it do?

Kojic acid is a substance derived by funghi—namely, mushrooms, according to Dr. Graf. It's best known for its skin-brightening properties, since it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor (which, like we mentioned, interferes with and slows the pigment production process, resulting in less pigment and therefore, more even skin tone). Unlike, say, salicylic acid, its primary function in skin doesn't involve exfoliation.

“Tyrosinase inhibitors are commonly used in skin care products due to their ability to help with dark spots and uneven skin tone,” says Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. And they work best in groups, which is why you can find kojic acid paired with other tyrosinase inhibitors like vitamin C, licorice extract, and tranexamic acid. (The benefit of vitamin C is that it also functions as an antioxidant, thus neutralizing the free radicals that can lead to more discoloration when left unchecked.)

Since acne scars, sun spots, and hyperpigmentation benefit from a multi-pronged approach, you'll also find it alongside niacinamide, which works in a different way—by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes, or bundles of pigment, to skin's surface, if you want to get nerdy about it—to even out skin tone. As it's an active ingredient, you can usually find it in face serums and treatments instead of toners and cleansers—as they allow for high concentrations.

According to Dr. Shirazi, the sweet spot for kojic acid in a serum is 1 to 2%. “Kojic acid needs to be in the first five ingredients mentioned on the bottle to mean it’s actually doing the work,” she says.

What are the potential side effects of kojic acid?

While at the levels found in over-the-counter products, kojic acid is unlikely to have any side effects, it can cause “skin irritation, redness, and dryness, especially with higher concentrations or prolonged use,” says Dr. Graf. For that reason, if you know you have sensitive skin, consider patch-testing it or taking a gradual approach (use it twice a week and work your way up from there).

And, although sunscreen use should be a habit anyway—especially if you're dealing with discoloration—“it can also increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so I recommend always wearing sun protection during use,” she says.

How long does kojic acid take to work?

While it can vary from person to person, “some may see improvements in skin tone and a reduction of dark spots within four to six weeks of consistent use,” says Dr. Graf. Again, that assumes you're wearing sunscreen, since sun exposure can undo kojic acid's hard work. And she does warn that severe hyperpigmentation can take longer to fade—think three months or more.

What should you not use with kojic acid?

When using kojic acid, it’s important to be aware of the ingredients in other formulas you’re using. According to Dobos, skin-care products with a very low pH, like those containing AHAs or BHAs, can lead to increased irritation and dryness when paired with kojic acid.

Dr. Greenfield also advises against using harsh acids or prescription retinoids alongside kojic acid, as they can further irritate the skin. To minimize the risk of adverse reactions, Dobos recommends performing a patch test before introducing kojic acid into your routine. Also, if you regularly use a retinoid, alternate usage of the two—retinol one night, kojic acid on the other.

Meet the experts

  • Azadeh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in La Jolla, CA
  • Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Miami, Florida
  • Jeanette Graf, MD a board-certified dermatologist in New York, New York
  • Nicole Lee, MD, board-certified dermatologist in Garden City, New York
  • Reshmi Kapoor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City

How we test and review products

When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that's included in every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.

For our list of the best kojic acid products, we considered each product's performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors — along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.

Our staff and testers

When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that's included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.

For our list of the best kojic acid products, we considered each product's performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.

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